Hydraulic disc brake systems absorb air over time, affecting performance and lever feel. If your brakes are feeling spongy or lack power, this can be a sign they require bleeding.<\/p>\n
Brake bleeding is the process of replacing old brake fluid<\/a> while removing any air bubbles in the system.<\/p>\n SRAM recommends bleeding its brakes annually or more frequently if you are riding aggressively and braking heavily.<\/p>\n In this guide, we\u2019ll take you through the process of how to bleed SRAM road and mountain bike disc brakes.<\/p>\n Unlike when bleeding Shimano disc brakes<\/a>, where you can sometimes burp-bleed them as a half-way house measure, this generally isn\u2019t possible on SRAM. Therefore, it is generally best to perform a full bleed.<\/p>\nHow to bleed SRAM disc brakes<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Bleeding is the act of replacing the fluid and removing any air that\u2019s in the system.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n This guide follows SRAM\u2019s official method for bleeding road hydraulic disc brakes using Bleeding Edge and non-Bleeding Edge technology.<\/p>\n We\u2019ll be demonstrating using a SRAM Red eTap AXS<\/a> and a SRAM Rival eTap AXS<\/a> brake.<\/p>\n The process is identical for all other SRAM road, gravel and mountain bike disc brakes<\/a>, except SRAM\u2019s mineral-oil based DB8 brakes.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> SRAM brakes use DOT 4\/5.1 fluid.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n With the exception of the aforementioned DB8s, SRAM brakes use DOT fluid, specifically the 4 or 5.1 variants, with the latter being the pinnacle due to its higher boiling point. As a result, we\u2019d always recommend using DOT 5.1 fluid.<\/p>\n Unlike mineral oil, which is unregulated, DOT 4\/5.1 is regulated, and is used in the automotive industry.<\/p>\n DOT fluid is corrosive \u2013\u00a0it can irritate your eyes or skin and cause damage to the paint or the finish of the components on your bike. Take care when handling it and have plenty of rags and isopropyl alcohol on hand to clean any spills.<\/p>\n Do not use mineral oil or a bleed kit that was used previously with a different fluid. You also must not use DOT 3 or DOT 5 fluid because they are not compatible. Using the wrong fluid will destroy the seals and lead to brake failure.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A Bleeding Edge port is identifiable by its rubber plug.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n Before beginning the procedure, you\u2019ll need to identify the bleed port type your caliper uses.<\/p>\n Calipers with a rubber bleed port cover denote it is a SRAM Bleeding Edge type, whereas calipers with a T10 torx bleed port screw use a threaded fitting.<\/p>\n SRAM Bleeding Edge represented a change to SRAM\u2019s caliper bleed port standard and the threaded fittings won\u2019t fit. The newer standard makes bleeding simpler because there is a reduced chance of fluid leaking.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth having everything in easy reach while you\u2019re bleeding brakes.<\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n We\u2019re using a Park Tool BKD-1.2 set which works across other models of brake that use DOT fluid. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The kit comes with an array of fittings. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\nNeedlenose pliers and hex key to remove disc brake pads<\/a><\/li>\n4mm hex key (for Bleeding Edge calipers)<\/li>\n5mm hex key (for contact adjustment on drop-bar shifters)<\/li>\nT10 torx wrench<\/li>\nIsopropyl alcohol<\/li>\nSafety glasses and protective gloves<\/li>\nShop towel\/rags<\/li>\nSRAM DOT 5.1 fluid<\/li>\nA SRAM-compatible bleed kit<\/li>\nPiston press (you could also use a plastic tyre lever)<\/li>\nBleed block<\/li>\nTorque wrench and relevant sockets (recommended but not essential)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h3>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Remove the wheel. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Out come the pads. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Put the pads to one side. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n Install the bike onto a repair stand<\/a>, making sure the brake levers are positioned so they are the highest point of the system.<\/p>\n If you\u2019re bleeding a mountain bike brake, position the lever so it is level.<\/p>\n Remove the wheel and the disc brake pads<\/a>. Put the disc brake pads in a safe space where they will not come into contact with any brake fluid.<\/p>\n When removing the pads, make sure you only handle them on the backing plate to reduce the risk of contamination.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Although expensive at \u00a391\/$94, SRAM\u2019s Ultimate Universal Piston Press is a dedicated tool for its calipers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n Push the caliper pistons back using either a piston press or a plastic tyre lever. Take care when doing this, especially on higher-end calipers, which use easily cracked ceramic pistons.<\/p>\n Install a compatible bleed block. If the bleed block doesn\u2019t fit, the pistons are either not pushed back completely or it may be the system was over-filled previously.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The bleed block stops the pistons from falling out and ensures the correct amount of fluid is in the system.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n If you are bleeding the rear calilper, you could consider removing it from the frame and letting it dangle vertically. This can make it easier for air bubbles to travel up to the lever.<\/p>\n If your brake has contact adjustment, wind it all the way in the opposite direction of the arrow. On a road bike shifter, this will be located under the lever hood.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> These SRAM Red eTap AXS levers require a 5mm hex key for the contact adjust.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n If your brake has lever reach adjustment, SRAM recommends positioning it so the tip of the lever blade is between 75 and 80mm away from the centreline of the handlebar. If it\u2019s outside of these measurements, make note of your current measurement so you can return it to the right place later.<\/p>\n If you are bleeding a time-trial lever, SRAM recommends fully removing it from the handlebar.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In this Park Tool kit, the silver fitting is for Bleeding Edge.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n If your caliper uses a Bleeding Edge port, install a compatible adaptor onto the end of one syringe hose and a threaded fitting onto the other syringe hose.<\/p>\n If your caliper is not a Bleeding Edge type, you\u2019ll need to fit a threaded fitting on both syringes.<\/p>\n The Bleeding Edge syringe will be your caliper syringe.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Draw fluid out from the bottle. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Use a rag to dispose of any air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n For stubborn bubbles, hold the syringe vertically to guide them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Close the syringe clamp. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n Fill the lever syringe \u00be full and the caliper syringe \u00bc full.<\/p>\n Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles to avoid introducing air into the system. Hold the syringe vertically, with a rag covering the tip and gently depress the plunger to remove the air bubbles.<\/p>\n Close the syringe clamp.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Tap on the syringe with a hex key to encourage more air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth persevering for the best result. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Forever blowing bubbles\u2026 <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Flush them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\nElectromagnetic Clutches And Brakes
SRAM recommends bleeding its brakes annually or more frequently if you are riding aggressively and braking heavily.<\/p>\n
In this guide, we\u2019ll take you through the process of how to bleed SRAM road and mountain bike disc brakes.<\/p>\n
Unlike when bleeding Shimano disc brakes<\/a>, where you can sometimes burp-bleed them as a half-way house measure, this generally isn\u2019t possible on SRAM. Therefore, it is generally best to perform a full bleed.<\/p>\nHow to bleed SRAM disc brakes<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Bleeding is the act of replacing the fluid and removing any air that\u2019s in the system.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
This guide follows SRAM\u2019s official method for bleeding road hydraulic disc brakes using Bleeding Edge and non-Bleeding Edge technology.<\/p>\n
We\u2019ll be demonstrating using a SRAM Red eTap AXS<\/a> and a SRAM Rival eTap AXS<\/a> brake.<\/p>\n
The process is identical for all other SRAM road, gravel and mountain bike disc brakes<\/a>, except SRAM\u2019s mineral-oil based DB8 brakes.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> SRAM brakes use DOT 4\/5.1 fluid.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
With the exception of the aforementioned DB8s, SRAM brakes use DOT fluid, specifically the 4 or 5.1 variants, with the latter being the pinnacle due to its higher boiling point. As a result, we\u2019d always recommend using DOT 5.1 fluid.<\/p>\n
Unlike mineral oil, which is unregulated, DOT 4\/5.1 is regulated, and is used in the automotive industry.<\/p>\n
DOT fluid is corrosive \u2013\u00a0it can irritate your eyes or skin and cause damage to the paint or the finish of the components on your bike. Take care when handling it and have plenty of rags and isopropyl alcohol on hand to clean any spills.<\/p>\n
Do not use mineral oil or a bleed kit that was used previously with a different fluid. You also must not use DOT 3 or DOT 5 fluid because they are not compatible. Using the wrong fluid will destroy the seals and lead to brake failure.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A Bleeding Edge port is identifiable by its rubber plug.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Before beginning the procedure, you\u2019ll need to identify the bleed port type your caliper uses.<\/p>\n
Calipers with a rubber bleed port cover denote it is a SRAM Bleeding Edge type, whereas calipers with a T10 torx bleed port screw use a threaded fitting.<\/p>\n
SRAM Bleeding Edge represented a change to SRAM\u2019s caliper bleed port standard and the threaded fittings won\u2019t fit. The newer standard makes bleeding simpler because there is a reduced chance of fluid leaking.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth having everything in easy reach while you\u2019re bleeding brakes.<\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n We\u2019re using a Park Tool BKD-1.2 set which works across other models of brake that use DOT fluid. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The kit comes with an array of fittings. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\nNeedlenose pliers and hex key to remove disc brake pads<\/a><\/li>\n4mm hex key (for Bleeding Edge calipers)<\/li>\n5mm hex key (for contact adjustment on drop-bar shifters)<\/li>\nT10 torx wrench<\/li>\nIsopropyl alcohol<\/li>\nSafety glasses and protective gloves<\/li>\nShop towel\/rags<\/li>\nSRAM DOT 5.1 fluid<\/li>\nA SRAM-compatible bleed kit<\/li>\nPiston press (you could also use a plastic tyre lever)<\/li>\nBleed block<\/li>\nTorque wrench and relevant sockets (recommended but not essential)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h3>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Remove the wheel. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Out come the pads. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Put the pads to one side. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Install the bike onto a repair stand<\/a>, making sure the brake levers are positioned so they are the highest point of the system.<\/p>\n
If you\u2019re bleeding a mountain bike brake, position the lever so it is level.<\/p>\n
Remove the wheel and the disc brake pads<\/a>. Put the disc brake pads in a safe space where they will not come into contact with any brake fluid.<\/p>\n
When removing the pads, make sure you only handle them on the backing plate to reduce the risk of contamination.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Although expensive at \u00a391\/$94, SRAM\u2019s Ultimate Universal Piston Press is a dedicated tool for its calipers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Push the caliper pistons back using either a piston press or a plastic tyre lever. Take care when doing this, especially on higher-end calipers, which use easily cracked ceramic pistons.<\/p>\n
Install a compatible bleed block. If the bleed block doesn\u2019t fit, the pistons are either not pushed back completely or it may be the system was over-filled previously.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The bleed block stops the pistons from falling out and ensures the correct amount of fluid is in the system.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you are bleeding the rear calilper, you could consider removing it from the frame and letting it dangle vertically. This can make it easier for air bubbles to travel up to the lever.<\/p>\n
If your brake has contact adjustment, wind it all the way in the opposite direction of the arrow. On a road bike shifter, this will be located under the lever hood.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> These SRAM Red eTap AXS levers require a 5mm hex key for the contact adjust.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your brake has lever reach adjustment, SRAM recommends positioning it so the tip of the lever blade is between 75 and 80mm away from the centreline of the handlebar. If it\u2019s outside of these measurements, make note of your current measurement so you can return it to the right place later.<\/p>\n
If you are bleeding a time-trial lever, SRAM recommends fully removing it from the handlebar.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In this Park Tool kit, the silver fitting is for Bleeding Edge.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your caliper uses a Bleeding Edge port, install a compatible adaptor onto the end of one syringe hose and a threaded fitting onto the other syringe hose.<\/p>\n
If your caliper is not a Bleeding Edge type, you\u2019ll need to fit a threaded fitting on both syringes.<\/p>\n
The Bleeding Edge syringe will be your caliper syringe.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Draw fluid out from the bottle. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Use a rag to dispose of any air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n For stubborn bubbles, hold the syringe vertically to guide them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Close the syringe clamp. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Fill the lever syringe \u00be full and the caliper syringe \u00bc full.<\/p>\n
Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles to avoid introducing air into the system. Hold the syringe vertically, with a rag covering the tip and gently depress the plunger to remove the air bubbles.<\/p>\n
Close the syringe clamp.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Tap on the syringe with a hex key to encourage more air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth persevering for the best result. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Forever blowing bubbles\u2026 <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Flush them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n This guide follows SRAM\u2019s official method for bleeding road hydraulic disc brakes using Bleeding Edge and non-Bleeding Edge technology.<\/p>\n We\u2019ll be demonstrating using a SRAM Red eTap AXS<\/a> and a SRAM Rival eTap AXS<\/a> brake.<\/p>\n
The process is identical for all other SRAM road, gravel and mountain bike disc brakes<\/a>, except SRAM\u2019s mineral-oil based DB8 brakes.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> SRAM brakes use DOT 4\/5.1 fluid.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
With the exception of the aforementioned DB8s, SRAM brakes use DOT fluid, specifically the 4 or 5.1 variants, with the latter being the pinnacle due to its higher boiling point. As a result, we\u2019d always recommend using DOT 5.1 fluid.<\/p>\n
Unlike mineral oil, which is unregulated, DOT 4\/5.1 is regulated, and is used in the automotive industry.<\/p>\n
DOT fluid is corrosive \u2013\u00a0it can irritate your eyes or skin and cause damage to the paint or the finish of the components on your bike. Take care when handling it and have plenty of rags and isopropyl alcohol on hand to clean any spills.<\/p>\n
Do not use mineral oil or a bleed kit that was used previously with a different fluid. You also must not use DOT 3 or DOT 5 fluid because they are not compatible. Using the wrong fluid will destroy the seals and lead to brake failure.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A Bleeding Edge port is identifiable by its rubber plug.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Before beginning the procedure, you\u2019ll need to identify the bleed port type your caliper uses.<\/p>\n
Calipers with a rubber bleed port cover denote it is a SRAM Bleeding Edge type, whereas calipers with a T10 torx bleed port screw use a threaded fitting.<\/p>\n
SRAM Bleeding Edge represented a change to SRAM\u2019s caliper bleed port standard and the threaded fittings won\u2019t fit. The newer standard makes bleeding simpler because there is a reduced chance of fluid leaking.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth having everything in easy reach while you\u2019re bleeding brakes.<\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n We\u2019re using a Park Tool BKD-1.2 set which works across other models of brake that use DOT fluid. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The kit comes with an array of fittings. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\nNeedlenose pliers and hex key to remove disc brake pads<\/a><\/li>\n4mm hex key (for Bleeding Edge calipers)<\/li>\n5mm hex key (for contact adjustment on drop-bar shifters)<\/li>\nT10 torx wrench<\/li>\nIsopropyl alcohol<\/li>\nSafety glasses and protective gloves<\/li>\nShop towel\/rags<\/li>\nSRAM DOT 5.1 fluid<\/li>\nA SRAM-compatible bleed kit<\/li>\nPiston press (you could also use a plastic tyre lever)<\/li>\nBleed block<\/li>\nTorque wrench and relevant sockets (recommended but not essential)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h3>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Remove the wheel. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Out come the pads. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Put the pads to one side. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Install the bike onto a repair stand<\/a>, making sure the brake levers are positioned so they are the highest point of the system.<\/p>\n
If you\u2019re bleeding a mountain bike brake, position the lever so it is level.<\/p>\n
Remove the wheel and the disc brake pads<\/a>. Put the disc brake pads in a safe space where they will not come into contact with any brake fluid.<\/p>\n
When removing the pads, make sure you only handle them on the backing plate to reduce the risk of contamination.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Although expensive at \u00a391\/$94, SRAM\u2019s Ultimate Universal Piston Press is a dedicated tool for its calipers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Push the caliper pistons back using either a piston press or a plastic tyre lever. Take care when doing this, especially on higher-end calipers, which use easily cracked ceramic pistons.<\/p>\n
Install a compatible bleed block. If the bleed block doesn\u2019t fit, the pistons are either not pushed back completely or it may be the system was over-filled previously.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The bleed block stops the pistons from falling out and ensures the correct amount of fluid is in the system.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you are bleeding the rear calilper, you could consider removing it from the frame and letting it dangle vertically. This can make it easier for air bubbles to travel up to the lever.<\/p>\n
If your brake has contact adjustment, wind it all the way in the opposite direction of the arrow. On a road bike shifter, this will be located under the lever hood.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> These SRAM Red eTap AXS levers require a 5mm hex key for the contact adjust.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your brake has lever reach adjustment, SRAM recommends positioning it so the tip of the lever blade is between 75 and 80mm away from the centreline of the handlebar. If it\u2019s outside of these measurements, make note of your current measurement so you can return it to the right place later.<\/p>\n
If you are bleeding a time-trial lever, SRAM recommends fully removing it from the handlebar.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In this Park Tool kit, the silver fitting is for Bleeding Edge.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your caliper uses a Bleeding Edge port, install a compatible adaptor onto the end of one syringe hose and a threaded fitting onto the other syringe hose.<\/p>\n
If your caliper is not a Bleeding Edge type, you\u2019ll need to fit a threaded fitting on both syringes.<\/p>\n
The Bleeding Edge syringe will be your caliper syringe.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Draw fluid out from the bottle. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Use a rag to dispose of any air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n For stubborn bubbles, hold the syringe vertically to guide them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Close the syringe clamp. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Fill the lever syringe \u00be full and the caliper syringe \u00bc full.<\/p>\n
Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles to avoid introducing air into the system. Hold the syringe vertically, with a rag covering the tip and gently depress the plunger to remove the air bubbles.<\/p>\n
Close the syringe clamp.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Tap on the syringe with a hex key to encourage more air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth persevering for the best result. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Forever blowing bubbles\u2026 <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Flush them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n The process is identical for all other SRAM road, gravel and mountain bike disc brakes<\/a>, except SRAM\u2019s mineral-oil based DB8 brakes.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> SRAM brakes use DOT 4\/5.1 fluid.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
With the exception of the aforementioned DB8s, SRAM brakes use DOT fluid, specifically the 4 or 5.1 variants, with the latter being the pinnacle due to its higher boiling point. As a result, we\u2019d always recommend using DOT 5.1 fluid.<\/p>\n
Unlike mineral oil, which is unregulated, DOT 4\/5.1 is regulated, and is used in the automotive industry.<\/p>\n
DOT fluid is corrosive \u2013\u00a0it can irritate your eyes or skin and cause damage to the paint or the finish of the components on your bike. Take care when handling it and have plenty of rags and isopropyl alcohol on hand to clean any spills.<\/p>\n
Do not use mineral oil or a bleed kit that was used previously with a different fluid. You also must not use DOT 3 or DOT 5 fluid because they are not compatible. Using the wrong fluid will destroy the seals and lead to brake failure.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A Bleeding Edge port is identifiable by its rubber plug.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Before beginning the procedure, you\u2019ll need to identify the bleed port type your caliper uses.<\/p>\n
Calipers with a rubber bleed port cover denote it is a SRAM Bleeding Edge type, whereas calipers with a T10 torx bleed port screw use a threaded fitting.<\/p>\n
SRAM Bleeding Edge represented a change to SRAM\u2019s caliper bleed port standard and the threaded fittings won\u2019t fit. The newer standard makes bleeding simpler because there is a reduced chance of fluid leaking.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth having everything in easy reach while you\u2019re bleeding brakes.<\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n We\u2019re using a Park Tool BKD-1.2 set which works across other models of brake that use DOT fluid. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The kit comes with an array of fittings. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\nNeedlenose pliers and hex key to remove disc brake pads<\/a><\/li>\n4mm hex key (for Bleeding Edge calipers)<\/li>\n5mm hex key (for contact adjustment on drop-bar shifters)<\/li>\nT10 torx wrench<\/li>\nIsopropyl alcohol<\/li>\nSafety glasses and protective gloves<\/li>\nShop towel\/rags<\/li>\nSRAM DOT 5.1 fluid<\/li>\nA SRAM-compatible bleed kit<\/li>\nPiston press (you could also use a plastic tyre lever)<\/li>\nBleed block<\/li>\nTorque wrench and relevant sockets (recommended but not essential)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h3>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Remove the wheel. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Out come the pads. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Put the pads to one side. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Install the bike onto a repair stand<\/a>, making sure the brake levers are positioned so they are the highest point of the system.<\/p>\n
If you\u2019re bleeding a mountain bike brake, position the lever so it is level.<\/p>\n
Remove the wheel and the disc brake pads<\/a>. Put the disc brake pads in a safe space where they will not come into contact with any brake fluid.<\/p>\n
When removing the pads, make sure you only handle them on the backing plate to reduce the risk of contamination.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Although expensive at \u00a391\/$94, SRAM\u2019s Ultimate Universal Piston Press is a dedicated tool for its calipers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Push the caliper pistons back using either a piston press or a plastic tyre lever. Take care when doing this, especially on higher-end calipers, which use easily cracked ceramic pistons.<\/p>\n
Install a compatible bleed block. If the bleed block doesn\u2019t fit, the pistons are either not pushed back completely or it may be the system was over-filled previously.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The bleed block stops the pistons from falling out and ensures the correct amount of fluid is in the system.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you are bleeding the rear calilper, you could consider removing it from the frame and letting it dangle vertically. This can make it easier for air bubbles to travel up to the lever.<\/p>\n
If your brake has contact adjustment, wind it all the way in the opposite direction of the arrow. On a road bike shifter, this will be located under the lever hood.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> These SRAM Red eTap AXS levers require a 5mm hex key for the contact adjust.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your brake has lever reach adjustment, SRAM recommends positioning it so the tip of the lever blade is between 75 and 80mm away from the centreline of the handlebar. If it\u2019s outside of these measurements, make note of your current measurement so you can return it to the right place later.<\/p>\n
If you are bleeding a time-trial lever, SRAM recommends fully removing it from the handlebar.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In this Park Tool kit, the silver fitting is for Bleeding Edge.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your caliper uses a Bleeding Edge port, install a compatible adaptor onto the end of one syringe hose and a threaded fitting onto the other syringe hose.<\/p>\n
If your caliper is not a Bleeding Edge type, you\u2019ll need to fit a threaded fitting on both syringes.<\/p>\n
The Bleeding Edge syringe will be your caliper syringe.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Draw fluid out from the bottle. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Use a rag to dispose of any air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n For stubborn bubbles, hold the syringe vertically to guide them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Close the syringe clamp. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Fill the lever syringe \u00be full and the caliper syringe \u00bc full.<\/p>\n
Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles to avoid introducing air into the system. Hold the syringe vertically, with a rag covering the tip and gently depress the plunger to remove the air bubbles.<\/p>\n
Close the syringe clamp.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Tap on the syringe with a hex key to encourage more air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth persevering for the best result. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Forever blowing bubbles\u2026 <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Flush them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n With the exception of the aforementioned DB8s, SRAM brakes use DOT fluid, specifically the 4 or 5.1 variants, with the latter being the pinnacle due to its higher boiling point. As a result, we\u2019d always recommend using DOT 5.1 fluid.<\/p>\n Unlike mineral oil, which is unregulated, DOT 4\/5.1 is regulated, and is used in the automotive industry.<\/p>\n DOT fluid is corrosive \u2013\u00a0it can irritate your eyes or skin and cause damage to the paint or the finish of the components on your bike. Take care when handling it and have plenty of rags and isopropyl alcohol on hand to clean any spills.<\/p>\n Do not use mineral oil or a bleed kit that was used previously with a different fluid. You also must not use DOT 3 or DOT 5 fluid because they are not compatible. Using the wrong fluid will destroy the seals and lead to brake failure.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A Bleeding Edge port is identifiable by its rubber plug.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Before beginning the procedure, you\u2019ll need to identify the bleed port type your caliper uses.<\/p>\n
Calipers with a rubber bleed port cover denote it is a SRAM Bleeding Edge type, whereas calipers with a T10 torx bleed port screw use a threaded fitting.<\/p>\n
SRAM Bleeding Edge represented a change to SRAM\u2019s caliper bleed port standard and the threaded fittings won\u2019t fit. The newer standard makes bleeding simpler because there is a reduced chance of fluid leaking.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth having everything in easy reach while you\u2019re bleeding brakes.<\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n We\u2019re using a Park Tool BKD-1.2 set which works across other models of brake that use DOT fluid. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The kit comes with an array of fittings. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\nNeedlenose pliers and hex key to remove disc brake pads<\/a><\/li>\n4mm hex key (for Bleeding Edge calipers)<\/li>\n5mm hex key (for contact adjustment on drop-bar shifters)<\/li>\nT10 torx wrench<\/li>\nIsopropyl alcohol<\/li>\nSafety glasses and protective gloves<\/li>\nShop towel\/rags<\/li>\nSRAM DOT 5.1 fluid<\/li>\nA SRAM-compatible bleed kit<\/li>\nPiston press (you could also use a plastic tyre lever)<\/li>\nBleed block<\/li>\nTorque wrench and relevant sockets (recommended but not essential)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h3>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Remove the wheel. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Out come the pads. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Put the pads to one side. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Install the bike onto a repair stand<\/a>, making sure the brake levers are positioned so they are the highest point of the system.<\/p>\n
If you\u2019re bleeding a mountain bike brake, position the lever so it is level.<\/p>\n
Remove the wheel and the disc brake pads<\/a>. Put the disc brake pads in a safe space where they will not come into contact with any brake fluid.<\/p>\n
When removing the pads, make sure you only handle them on the backing plate to reduce the risk of contamination.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Although expensive at \u00a391\/$94, SRAM\u2019s Ultimate Universal Piston Press is a dedicated tool for its calipers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Push the caliper pistons back using either a piston press or a plastic tyre lever. Take care when doing this, especially on higher-end calipers, which use easily cracked ceramic pistons.<\/p>\n
Install a compatible bleed block. If the bleed block doesn\u2019t fit, the pistons are either not pushed back completely or it may be the system was over-filled previously.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The bleed block stops the pistons from falling out and ensures the correct amount of fluid is in the system.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you are bleeding the rear calilper, you could consider removing it from the frame and letting it dangle vertically. This can make it easier for air bubbles to travel up to the lever.<\/p>\n
If your brake has contact adjustment, wind it all the way in the opposite direction of the arrow. On a road bike shifter, this will be located under the lever hood.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> These SRAM Red eTap AXS levers require a 5mm hex key for the contact adjust.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your brake has lever reach adjustment, SRAM recommends positioning it so the tip of the lever blade is between 75 and 80mm away from the centreline of the handlebar. If it\u2019s outside of these measurements, make note of your current measurement so you can return it to the right place later.<\/p>\n
If you are bleeding a time-trial lever, SRAM recommends fully removing it from the handlebar.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In this Park Tool kit, the silver fitting is for Bleeding Edge.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your caliper uses a Bleeding Edge port, install a compatible adaptor onto the end of one syringe hose and a threaded fitting onto the other syringe hose.<\/p>\n
If your caliper is not a Bleeding Edge type, you\u2019ll need to fit a threaded fitting on both syringes.<\/p>\n
The Bleeding Edge syringe will be your caliper syringe.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Draw fluid out from the bottle. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Use a rag to dispose of any air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n For stubborn bubbles, hold the syringe vertically to guide them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Close the syringe clamp. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Fill the lever syringe \u00be full and the caliper syringe \u00bc full.<\/p>\n
Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles to avoid introducing air into the system. Hold the syringe vertically, with a rag covering the tip and gently depress the plunger to remove the air bubbles.<\/p>\n
Close the syringe clamp.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Tap on the syringe with a hex key to encourage more air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth persevering for the best result. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Forever blowing bubbles\u2026 <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Flush them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n Before beginning the procedure, you\u2019ll need to identify the bleed port type your caliper uses.<\/p>\n Calipers with a rubber bleed port cover denote it is a SRAM Bleeding Edge type, whereas calipers with a T10 torx bleed port screw use a threaded fitting.<\/p>\n SRAM Bleeding Edge represented a change to SRAM\u2019s caliper bleed port standard and the threaded fittings won\u2019t fit. The newer standard makes bleeding simpler because there is a reduced chance of fluid leaking.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth having everything in easy reach while you\u2019re bleeding brakes.<\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n We\u2019re using a Park Tool BKD-1.2 set which works across other models of brake that use DOT fluid. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The kit comes with an array of fittings. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\nNeedlenose pliers and hex key to remove disc brake pads<\/a><\/li>\n4mm hex key (for Bleeding Edge calipers)<\/li>\n5mm hex key (for contact adjustment on drop-bar shifters)<\/li>\nT10 torx wrench<\/li>\nIsopropyl alcohol<\/li>\nSafety glasses and protective gloves<\/li>\nShop towel\/rags<\/li>\nSRAM DOT 5.1 fluid<\/li>\nA SRAM-compatible bleed kit<\/li>\nPiston press (you could also use a plastic tyre lever)<\/li>\nBleed block<\/li>\nTorque wrench and relevant sockets (recommended but not essential)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h3>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Remove the wheel. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Out come the pads. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Put the pads to one side. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Install the bike onto a repair stand<\/a>, making sure the brake levers are positioned so they are the highest point of the system.<\/p>\n
If you\u2019re bleeding a mountain bike brake, position the lever so it is level.<\/p>\n
Remove the wheel and the disc brake pads<\/a>. Put the disc brake pads in a safe space where they will not come into contact with any brake fluid.<\/p>\n
When removing the pads, make sure you only handle them on the backing plate to reduce the risk of contamination.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Although expensive at \u00a391\/$94, SRAM\u2019s Ultimate Universal Piston Press is a dedicated tool for its calipers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Push the caliper pistons back using either a piston press or a plastic tyre lever. Take care when doing this, especially on higher-end calipers, which use easily cracked ceramic pistons.<\/p>\n
Install a compatible bleed block. If the bleed block doesn\u2019t fit, the pistons are either not pushed back completely or it may be the system was over-filled previously.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The bleed block stops the pistons from falling out and ensures the correct amount of fluid is in the system.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you are bleeding the rear calilper, you could consider removing it from the frame and letting it dangle vertically. This can make it easier for air bubbles to travel up to the lever.<\/p>\n
If your brake has contact adjustment, wind it all the way in the opposite direction of the arrow. On a road bike shifter, this will be located under the lever hood.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> These SRAM Red eTap AXS levers require a 5mm hex key for the contact adjust.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your brake has lever reach adjustment, SRAM recommends positioning it so the tip of the lever blade is between 75 and 80mm away from the centreline of the handlebar. If it\u2019s outside of these measurements, make note of your current measurement so you can return it to the right place later.<\/p>\n
If you are bleeding a time-trial lever, SRAM recommends fully removing it from the handlebar.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In this Park Tool kit, the silver fitting is for Bleeding Edge.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your caliper uses a Bleeding Edge port, install a compatible adaptor onto the end of one syringe hose and a threaded fitting onto the other syringe hose.<\/p>\n
If your caliper is not a Bleeding Edge type, you\u2019ll need to fit a threaded fitting on both syringes.<\/p>\n
The Bleeding Edge syringe will be your caliper syringe.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Draw fluid out from the bottle. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Use a rag to dispose of any air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n For stubborn bubbles, hold the syringe vertically to guide them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Close the syringe clamp. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Fill the lever syringe \u00be full and the caliper syringe \u00bc full.<\/p>\n
Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles to avoid introducing air into the system. Hold the syringe vertically, with a rag covering the tip and gently depress the plunger to remove the air bubbles.<\/p>\n
Close the syringe clamp.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Tap on the syringe with a hex key to encourage more air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth persevering for the best result. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Forever blowing bubbles\u2026 <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Flush them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n Install the bike onto a repair stand<\/a>, making sure the brake levers are positioned so they are the highest point of the system.<\/p>\n
If you\u2019re bleeding a mountain bike brake, position the lever so it is level.<\/p>\n
Remove the wheel and the disc brake pads<\/a>. Put the disc brake pads in a safe space where they will not come into contact with any brake fluid.<\/p>\n
When removing the pads, make sure you only handle them on the backing plate to reduce the risk of contamination.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Although expensive at \u00a391\/$94, SRAM\u2019s Ultimate Universal Piston Press is a dedicated tool for its calipers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Push the caliper pistons back using either a piston press or a plastic tyre lever. Take care when doing this, especially on higher-end calipers, which use easily cracked ceramic pistons.<\/p>\n
Install a compatible bleed block. If the bleed block doesn\u2019t fit, the pistons are either not pushed back completely or it may be the system was over-filled previously.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The bleed block stops the pistons from falling out and ensures the correct amount of fluid is in the system.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you are bleeding the rear calilper, you could consider removing it from the frame and letting it dangle vertically. This can make it easier for air bubbles to travel up to the lever.<\/p>\n
If your brake has contact adjustment, wind it all the way in the opposite direction of the arrow. On a road bike shifter, this will be located under the lever hood.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> These SRAM Red eTap AXS levers require a 5mm hex key for the contact adjust.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your brake has lever reach adjustment, SRAM recommends positioning it so the tip of the lever blade is between 75 and 80mm away from the centreline of the handlebar. If it\u2019s outside of these measurements, make note of your current measurement so you can return it to the right place later.<\/p>\n
If you are bleeding a time-trial lever, SRAM recommends fully removing it from the handlebar.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In this Park Tool kit, the silver fitting is for Bleeding Edge.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your caliper uses a Bleeding Edge port, install a compatible adaptor onto the end of one syringe hose and a threaded fitting onto the other syringe hose.<\/p>\n
If your caliper is not a Bleeding Edge type, you\u2019ll need to fit a threaded fitting on both syringes.<\/p>\n
The Bleeding Edge syringe will be your caliper syringe.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Draw fluid out from the bottle. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Use a rag to dispose of any air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n For stubborn bubbles, hold the syringe vertically to guide them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Close the syringe clamp. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Fill the lever syringe \u00be full and the caliper syringe \u00bc full.<\/p>\n
Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles to avoid introducing air into the system. Hold the syringe vertically, with a rag covering the tip and gently depress the plunger to remove the air bubbles.<\/p>\n
Close the syringe clamp.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Tap on the syringe with a hex key to encourage more air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth persevering for the best result. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Forever blowing bubbles\u2026 <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Flush them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n If you\u2019re bleeding a mountain bike brake, position the lever so it is level.<\/p>\n Remove the wheel and the disc brake pads<\/a>. Put the disc brake pads in a safe space where they will not come into contact with any brake fluid.<\/p>\n
When removing the pads, make sure you only handle them on the backing plate to reduce the risk of contamination.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Although expensive at \u00a391\/$94, SRAM\u2019s Ultimate Universal Piston Press is a dedicated tool for its calipers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Push the caliper pistons back using either a piston press or a plastic tyre lever. Take care when doing this, especially on higher-end calipers, which use easily cracked ceramic pistons.<\/p>\n
Install a compatible bleed block. If the bleed block doesn\u2019t fit, the pistons are either not pushed back completely or it may be the system was over-filled previously.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The bleed block stops the pistons from falling out and ensures the correct amount of fluid is in the system.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you are bleeding the rear calilper, you could consider removing it from the frame and letting it dangle vertically. This can make it easier for air bubbles to travel up to the lever.<\/p>\n
If your brake has contact adjustment, wind it all the way in the opposite direction of the arrow. On a road bike shifter, this will be located under the lever hood.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> These SRAM Red eTap AXS levers require a 5mm hex key for the contact adjust.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your brake has lever reach adjustment, SRAM recommends positioning it so the tip of the lever blade is between 75 and 80mm away from the centreline of the handlebar. If it\u2019s outside of these measurements, make note of your current measurement so you can return it to the right place later.<\/p>\n
If you are bleeding a time-trial lever, SRAM recommends fully removing it from the handlebar.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In this Park Tool kit, the silver fitting is for Bleeding Edge.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your caliper uses a Bleeding Edge port, install a compatible adaptor onto the end of one syringe hose and a threaded fitting onto the other syringe hose.<\/p>\n
If your caliper is not a Bleeding Edge type, you\u2019ll need to fit a threaded fitting on both syringes.<\/p>\n
The Bleeding Edge syringe will be your caliper syringe.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Draw fluid out from the bottle. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Use a rag to dispose of any air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n For stubborn bubbles, hold the syringe vertically to guide them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Close the syringe clamp. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Fill the lever syringe \u00be full and the caliper syringe \u00bc full.<\/p>\n
Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles to avoid introducing air into the system. Hold the syringe vertically, with a rag covering the tip and gently depress the plunger to remove the air bubbles.<\/p>\n
Close the syringe clamp.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Tap on the syringe with a hex key to encourage more air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth persevering for the best result. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Forever blowing bubbles\u2026 <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Flush them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n When removing the pads, make sure you only handle them on the backing plate to reduce the risk of contamination.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Although expensive at \u00a391\/$94, SRAM\u2019s Ultimate Universal Piston Press is a dedicated tool for its calipers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Push the caliper pistons back using either a piston press or a plastic tyre lever. Take care when doing this, especially on higher-end calipers, which use easily cracked ceramic pistons.<\/p>\n
Install a compatible bleed block. If the bleed block doesn\u2019t fit, the pistons are either not pushed back completely or it may be the system was over-filled previously.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The bleed block stops the pistons from falling out and ensures the correct amount of fluid is in the system.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you are bleeding the rear calilper, you could consider removing it from the frame and letting it dangle vertically. This can make it easier for air bubbles to travel up to the lever.<\/p>\n
If your brake has contact adjustment, wind it all the way in the opposite direction of the arrow. On a road bike shifter, this will be located under the lever hood.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> These SRAM Red eTap AXS levers require a 5mm hex key for the contact adjust.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your brake has lever reach adjustment, SRAM recommends positioning it so the tip of the lever blade is between 75 and 80mm away from the centreline of the handlebar. If it\u2019s outside of these measurements, make note of your current measurement so you can return it to the right place later.<\/p>\n
If you are bleeding a time-trial lever, SRAM recommends fully removing it from the handlebar.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In this Park Tool kit, the silver fitting is for Bleeding Edge.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your caliper uses a Bleeding Edge port, install a compatible adaptor onto the end of one syringe hose and a threaded fitting onto the other syringe hose.<\/p>\n
If your caliper is not a Bleeding Edge type, you\u2019ll need to fit a threaded fitting on both syringes.<\/p>\n
The Bleeding Edge syringe will be your caliper syringe.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Draw fluid out from the bottle. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Use a rag to dispose of any air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n For stubborn bubbles, hold the syringe vertically to guide them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Close the syringe clamp. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Fill the lever syringe \u00be full and the caliper syringe \u00bc full.<\/p>\n
Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles to avoid introducing air into the system. Hold the syringe vertically, with a rag covering the tip and gently depress the plunger to remove the air bubbles.<\/p>\n
Close the syringe clamp.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Tap on the syringe with a hex key to encourage more air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth persevering for the best result. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Forever blowing bubbles\u2026 <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Flush them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n Push the caliper pistons back using either a piston press or a plastic tyre lever. Take care when doing this, especially on higher-end calipers, which use easily cracked ceramic pistons.<\/p>\n Install a compatible bleed block. If the bleed block doesn\u2019t fit, the pistons are either not pushed back completely or it may be the system was over-filled previously.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The bleed block stops the pistons from falling out and ensures the correct amount of fluid is in the system.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you are bleeding the rear calilper, you could consider removing it from the frame and letting it dangle vertically. This can make it easier for air bubbles to travel up to the lever.<\/p>\n
If your brake has contact adjustment, wind it all the way in the opposite direction of the arrow. On a road bike shifter, this will be located under the lever hood.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> These SRAM Red eTap AXS levers require a 5mm hex key for the contact adjust.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your brake has lever reach adjustment, SRAM recommends positioning it so the tip of the lever blade is between 75 and 80mm away from the centreline of the handlebar. If it\u2019s outside of these measurements, make note of your current measurement so you can return it to the right place later.<\/p>\n
If you are bleeding a time-trial lever, SRAM recommends fully removing it from the handlebar.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In this Park Tool kit, the silver fitting is for Bleeding Edge.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your caliper uses a Bleeding Edge port, install a compatible adaptor onto the end of one syringe hose and a threaded fitting onto the other syringe hose.<\/p>\n
If your caliper is not a Bleeding Edge type, you\u2019ll need to fit a threaded fitting on both syringes.<\/p>\n
The Bleeding Edge syringe will be your caliper syringe.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Draw fluid out from the bottle. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Use a rag to dispose of any air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n For stubborn bubbles, hold the syringe vertically to guide them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Close the syringe clamp. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Fill the lever syringe \u00be full and the caliper syringe \u00bc full.<\/p>\n
Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles to avoid introducing air into the system. Hold the syringe vertically, with a rag covering the tip and gently depress the plunger to remove the air bubbles.<\/p>\n
Close the syringe clamp.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Tap on the syringe with a hex key to encourage more air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth persevering for the best result. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Forever blowing bubbles\u2026 <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Flush them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n If you are bleeding the rear calilper, you could consider removing it from the frame and letting it dangle vertically. This can make it easier for air bubbles to travel up to the lever.<\/p>\n If your brake has contact adjustment, wind it all the way in the opposite direction of the arrow. On a road bike shifter, this will be located under the lever hood.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> These SRAM Red eTap AXS levers require a 5mm hex key for the contact adjust.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your brake has lever reach adjustment, SRAM recommends positioning it so the tip of the lever blade is between 75 and 80mm away from the centreline of the handlebar. If it\u2019s outside of these measurements, make note of your current measurement so you can return it to the right place later.<\/p>\n
If you are bleeding a time-trial lever, SRAM recommends fully removing it from the handlebar.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In this Park Tool kit, the silver fitting is for Bleeding Edge.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your caliper uses a Bleeding Edge port, install a compatible adaptor onto the end of one syringe hose and a threaded fitting onto the other syringe hose.<\/p>\n
If your caliper is not a Bleeding Edge type, you\u2019ll need to fit a threaded fitting on both syringes.<\/p>\n
The Bleeding Edge syringe will be your caliper syringe.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Draw fluid out from the bottle. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Use a rag to dispose of any air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n For stubborn bubbles, hold the syringe vertically to guide them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Close the syringe clamp. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Fill the lever syringe \u00be full and the caliper syringe \u00bc full.<\/p>\n
Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles to avoid introducing air into the system. Hold the syringe vertically, with a rag covering the tip and gently depress the plunger to remove the air bubbles.<\/p>\n
Close the syringe clamp.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Tap on the syringe with a hex key to encourage more air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth persevering for the best result. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Forever blowing bubbles\u2026 <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Flush them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n If your brake has lever reach adjustment, SRAM recommends positioning it so the tip of the lever blade is between 75 and 80mm away from the centreline of the handlebar. If it\u2019s outside of these measurements, make note of your current measurement so you can return it to the right place later.<\/p>\n If you are bleeding a time-trial lever, SRAM recommends fully removing it from the handlebar.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In this Park Tool kit, the silver fitting is for Bleeding Edge.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If your caliper uses a Bleeding Edge port, install a compatible adaptor onto the end of one syringe hose and a threaded fitting onto the other syringe hose.<\/p>\n
If your caliper is not a Bleeding Edge type, you\u2019ll need to fit a threaded fitting on both syringes.<\/p>\n
The Bleeding Edge syringe will be your caliper syringe.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Draw fluid out from the bottle. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Use a rag to dispose of any air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n For stubborn bubbles, hold the syringe vertically to guide them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Close the syringe clamp. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Fill the lever syringe \u00be full and the caliper syringe \u00bc full.<\/p>\n
Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles to avoid introducing air into the system. Hold the syringe vertically, with a rag covering the tip and gently depress the plunger to remove the air bubbles.<\/p>\n
Close the syringe clamp.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Tap on the syringe with a hex key to encourage more air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth persevering for the best result. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Forever blowing bubbles\u2026 <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Flush them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n If your caliper uses a Bleeding Edge port, install a compatible adaptor onto the end of one syringe hose and a threaded fitting onto the other syringe hose.<\/p>\n If your caliper is not a Bleeding Edge type, you\u2019ll need to fit a threaded fitting on both syringes.<\/p>\n The Bleeding Edge syringe will be your caliper syringe.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Draw fluid out from the bottle. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Use a rag to dispose of any air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n For stubborn bubbles, hold the syringe vertically to guide them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Close the syringe clamp. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
Fill the lever syringe \u00be full and the caliper syringe \u00bc full.<\/p>\n
Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles to avoid introducing air into the system. Hold the syringe vertically, with a rag covering the tip and gently depress the plunger to remove the air bubbles.<\/p>\n
Close the syringe clamp.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Tap on the syringe with a hex key to encourage more air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth persevering for the best result. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Forever blowing bubbles\u2026 <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Flush them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n Fill the lever syringe \u00be full and the caliper syringe \u00bc full.<\/p>\n Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles to avoid introducing air into the system. Hold the syringe vertically, with a rag covering the tip and gently depress the plunger to remove the air bubbles.<\/p>\n Electromagnetic Clutches And Brakes Close the syringe clamp.<\/p>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Tap on the syringe with a hex key to encourage more air bubbles. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n It\u2019s worth persevering for the best result. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Forever blowing bubbles\u2026 <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Flush them out. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
